In typical Tierra del Fuego fashion, I battled high winds and bouncy roads all the way to the border with Argentina. This was to be my final border crossing on this wild adventure south and while my emotions swirled like a tornado inside of me, they were dampened by the angst of my impending attempt […]
As usual, I set off later than planned and battled winds from start to finish. My goal was to make it to the Strait of Magellen in time to catch the ferry across to Tierra del Fuego. But I ran into a problem or two. I ignorantly assumed there would be fuel stations after leaving […]
After a lovely stay in the world famous setting of El Chaltén, I set off on the pompously picturesque ride to El Calafate. The turquoise lakes, rocky foothills, and snowcapped Andes traipsed along with me as the sun shone proudly upon it all. The wind even took a day off. After multiple days of 8-10 […]
For over 10 hours I rode. The back and neck aches became deeper and more frequent as my tolerance seemed to wane. In a way, the numbing of my toes and fingers from cold, lack of blood flow and vibrations was somehow a beneficial distraction from the mania taking place up and down my spine. […]
After a decent sleep, I packed up camp and shot off for my main objective for the day; getting through the Chilean border. I was a couple of hours into my journey when I came to a dirt road that seemed to be a shortcut according to the map. Just before taking the alternate route, […]
By the time I reached Patagonia, the blistering summer heat of northern Argentina had dissipated into chilly nights and blustery days. Each degree of latitude south seemed to drop the temperature and increase the wind intensity but the dryness of the utterly parched landscape changed little with the towering Andes Mountains acting as a permanent […]
A border crossing back through the Andes, a fat motorcycle bill, and a handful of goodbyes to my wonderful San Juan hosts and I was off into the late afternoon sun of northwest Argentina. Unable to secure a new rear tire, the balding rubber kept me honest and under 100kph. My hope was to pick […]
Leaving San Juan, Argentina in the early morning hours by bus, I had a relatively smooth 12 hour trip despite the 3 bus changes and another pain in the ass border crossing through the Andes. The anxiety was a little higher than it should have been as I was two days later than planned due […]
The 20 hour bus ride from Buenos Aires to San Juan wasn’t all that bad. Well at least not when compared to the recent horrors of betrayal by rancid beer corrupting my gut and leaving me sweating in the fetal position. With that literal shit show behind me, I silently applauded myself for upgrading my […]
The return home after months of motorcycle travel through South America was momentarily joyous but within days it became dour. The often experienced blues of a newly returned traveler hit hard and lingered for months. A loss of self, reduced sensory stimulus, and a redialing of perspective knocked me down from my world-traveling-I-can-conquer-all confidence. It […]