For over 10 hours I rode. The back and neck aches became deeper and more frequent as my tolerance seemed to wane. In a way, the numbing of my toes and fingers from cold, lack of blood flow and vibrations was somehow a beneficial distraction from the mania taking place up and down my spine. […]
By the time I reached Patagonia, the blistering summer heat of northern Argentina had dissipated into chilly nights and blustery days. Each degree of latitude south seemed to drop the temperature and increase the wind intensity but the dryness of the utterly parched landscape changed little with the towering Andes Mountains acting as a permanent […]
A border crossing back through the Andes, a fat motorcycle bill, and a handful of goodbyes to my wonderful San Juan hosts and I was off into the late afternoon sun of northwest Argentina. Unable to secure a new rear tire, the balding rubber kept me honest and under 100kph. My hope was to pick […]
La Paz I could go with never visiting La Paz again. Having said that, I’m glad I experienced it. One of the highest cities in the world, it seems to smother the steep bowl of mountains it sits in. Seemingly devoid of much long-term city planning, La Paz is a twisting maze of overcrowded streets […]
Bolivia was frustrating from the moment Jade and I attempted to cross the border. A lunch break for the vehicle importation office meant that the sole worker vacated the premises for a generous two hours. This gave us ample time for idleness and to sit next to a toothless Bolivian woman that was cooking and […]
Nazca Reluctantly leaving the desert oasis of Huacachina, Jade and I rode several hours through the bone dry landscape to our next destination of Nazca. The sun was setting and the tourist-driven town afforded us ample options of hostels, hotels, and restaurants. The next day we shot off early through the mountains towards Cusco but […]
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With the bike gang at a trio, we made a surprisingly lax and slightly convoluted crossing at the border. My dodgy paperwork failed to arise any suspicion, thankfully, and we were away again before the passport ink even dried. Elation and relief swept over us and despite getting pulled aside at a police check point […]
My initial plan to spend just a couple of days in Medellín before moving on quickly stretched to a week. Motorcycle repairs and maintenance were in order after hard riding, dusty roads and small crashes. My left pannier was in all sorts of bother and didn’t want to latch close never mind stay sealed to […]
Part of our my goal in South America is some balance of surreal relaxation and dangerous adventure. I have already been dipping my toes into both realms but the next week and half would come to exemplify some of the most drastic examples of either on this entire trip. And I was only three weeks […]
Three weeks in and I still have not been captured by guerrillas or beheaded by cartels. Success so far I’d say. Somehow prying myself away from the intoxicating city of Medellín, I made the long, neck and back-aching, 13-hour ride north leaving the mountainous interior for the dryer, albeit more humid and flatter coast. The […]