Ushuaia is touristy. The small city is mostly comprised of hotels, hostels, gift shops, and old gringos running around in matching Antarctica tour jackets. But the setting of the modern development juxtaposed with the snow capped mountains, lush green forests, busy harbor, and proximity to the ice continent of Antarctica, provide a sense surreality that […]
After a lovely stay in the world famous setting of El Chaltén, I set off on the pompously picturesque ride to El Calafate. The turquoise lakes, rocky foothills, and snowcapped Andes traipsed along with me as the sun shone proudly upon it all. The wind even took a day off. After multiple days of 8-10 […]
For over 10 hours I rode. The back and neck aches became deeper and more frequent as my tolerance seemed to wane. In a way, the numbing of my toes and fingers from cold, lack of blood flow and vibrations was somehow a beneficial distraction from the mania taking place up and down my spine. […]
After a decent sleep, I packed up camp and shot off for my main objective for the day; getting through the Chilean border. I was a couple of hours into my journey when I came to a dirt road that seemed to be a shortcut according to the map. Just before taking the alternate route, […]
By the time I reached Patagonia, the blistering summer heat of northern Argentina had dissipated into chilly nights and blustery days. Each degree of latitude south seemed to drop the temperature and increase the wind intensity but the dryness of the utterly parched landscape changed little with the towering Andes Mountains acting as a permanent […]
A border crossing back through the Andes, a fat motorcycle bill, and a handful of goodbyes to my wonderful San Juan hosts and I was off into the late afternoon sun of northwest Argentina. Unable to secure a new rear tire, the balding rubber kept me honest and under 100kph. My hope was to pick […]
Following the 4 hour nightmare border-crossing, Argentina was a welcomed change almost immediately. The roads were better, the gas stations didn’t deny foreigners, and the optimism of a new country lifted my spirits. New countries always bring about a general giddiness in me, but after the roller coast ride of Bolivia, the sweet offerings of […]
La Paz I could go with never visiting La Paz again. Having said that, I’m glad I experienced it. One of the highest cities in the world, it seems to smother the steep bowl of mountains it sits in. Seemingly devoid of much long-term city planning, La Paz is a twisting maze of overcrowded streets […]
After another day in La Paz, I sleeplessly boarded a tiny, mild anxiety-inducing, double prop-plane bound for the jungle town of Rurrenabaque. A short ride over the breathtaking, snow-capped Cordillera Real mountains dropped us down into the Amazon basin. The chilly, dry, high altitude of the west gave way to the vibrant, green humidity of […]
Bolivia was frustrating from the moment Jade and I attempted to cross the border. A lunch break for the vehicle importation office meant that the sole worker vacated the premises for a generous two hours. This gave us ample time for idleness and to sit next to a toothless Bolivian woman that was cooking and […]